Do you know how hard it is to find striped knit fabric in a bricks and mortar fabric store in Adelaide? Well let me tell you it’s really hard. So when I found some on a remnants hanger at DK Fabrics I grabbed it. There was only 1.4m but it was 150cm wide, so a quick Google search confirmed that would be enough..
T-Shirt Pattern Used
I picked up Kwik Sew 2184 a few years ago at an estate sale of a former Australian Sewing Guild member. I hadn’t used it before and knew it would be a perfect match for this fabric. It has a relaxed shoulder without any side shaping, side slits, a front placket with hidden buttons and a collar with a separate collar stand – ideal for walking the dog.
I choose View B, the short sleeve version in an XL.
Pattern Alterations
My hip measurement was the same as the pattern so I added 8cm in total around the hips to give me a loose fitting T-Shirt. This meant adding 2cm to the side seams of the Front and Back pieces. I also used the Large sized armhole, instead of the Extra Large (XL) so it didn’t drop over my shoulder too much. The adjustment ensured the seam line was the same length as the XL sleeve seam.
As you can see I have an entire Front and Back Pattern piece, not what came with the pattern. I traced off each piece then folded along the centre front/back and traced the other half. This is my preferred method of working with pattern pieces, but makes working with striped fabric so much easier.
Fabric
The fabric is a stretch knit on the lighter side with 50% horizontal stretch and 20% lengthwise stretch. Kwik Sew 2184 is for 20% horizontal stretch so it would work. It is 150cm wide and even though the fabric content wasn’t specified in the fabric store I’m pretty sure it’s 100% cotton.
To make the stripes stand out I choose a navy homespun cotton for the collar and placket that matched the base colour of the fabric perfectly.
Cutting Out
Matching stripes was going to be a given. I can’t stand stripes that don’t match. I carefully cut out the Front and Back making sure the stripes at the side seams would match. For the sleeves I matched up the uppermost blue stripe on the notches for the Front, Back and Sleeve.
Surprisingly I ended up with 50cm left over from the 1.4m length. So for an XL in a 150cm wide fabric only 1m is required.
Sewing the T-Shirt
The shoulder seams were stabilised with 2cm wide fusible edge tape that I use for all knit tops.
The placket was the trickiest part to sew. I’ve done a few plackets in my time but it’s been a few years, and this was the first one with a concealed button placket (ie. buttons can’t be seen from the outside). So I took my time and referred to the pattern instructions regularly. It ended up being quite straightforward.
For the knit fabric all seams were first sewn with a zig zag seam and then overlocked with a 4 thread overlock stitch, with Serafil thread in the overlocker needles and woolly nylon in the loopers to cater for extra stretch.
Matching the stripes meant lots of pinning, especially the side seams where I pinned the top of each stripe. (Should haven taken a photo – oh well)
Both upper collar pieces and collar stands were interfaced and sewn to the neckline.
The pattern has a button on the collar stand but I skipped this as I would never use it.
The hem of the T-Shirt and the sleeves were overlocked as a single layer, hem pressed, then sewn with a twin needle from the right side ensuring it caught the top edge of the overlocked edge. It looks just like a coverstitch.
For the side slits I ignored the pattern instructions and took inspiration from my husbands Gazman Rugby tops that use cotton tape to cover each side of the slit. The sides of the slit were folded under and a small length of cotton tape placed at the top of the slit to cover the raw edges, as well as providing some extra strength. I love how they turned out.
T-Shirt Review
It is a very relaxed top that is comfortable to wear, and the fabric has a nice softness to it. I like the concealed buttonholes on the placket , but I think I’ll lower the upper buttonhole so that I can put the T-Shirt on without having to undo the button to fit over my big head.
I find the collar to be quite stiff. Interfacing both collar pieces wasn’t such a good idea. I do like a firm collar but it’s just too much. Hopefully it will soften with washing.
I’ve worn it a few times walking the dog and general lazy days, but as Winter has arrived I’m reaching for my long sleeved tops instead. Fortunately Winter doesn’t last long in Adelaide, and we’ll have some warmer days soon.
Pattern: Kwik Sew 2184, Size XL
Fabric: 1.4m Striped Knit Remnant (50cm left over), 150cm wide from DK Fabrics – AU$6.00
Collar Fabric: Oxford Blue Prima Cotton Homespun from Spotlight – AU$2.80
Interfacing: Black Collar and Cuffs Interfacing from Melanns, 20cm x 2cm wide Edge Tape – AU$4.00
Buttons: 2x 13mm Silver buttons from my Stash
Cotton Tape: 10cm x 12mm Navy Cotton Tape from my Stash
Sewing Machine Thread: Rasant Polyester 3356 (Navy) – approx AU$0.20
Overlocker Thread: Serafil 120/2 Col 1282 (Charcoal), Woolly Nylon (Black) – approx AU$0.50
Cost of T-Shirt: AU$13.50
Sewing Machine Settings on my Memory Craft 3500:
For Knit Fabric:
- Sewing Machine Needle: Klasse BallPoint 80
- Seams Tension of 4.0, Zig Zag (#11), Width 0.5, Stitch Length 1.5
- Twin Needle: Schmetz Stretch Twin Needle 4.0/75
- Twin Needle Hems: Tension of 4.0, Straight (Stitch #1), Stitch Length 3.5
For Homespun Fabric:
- Sewing Machine Needle: Schmetz Universal 80
- Seams: Tension of 4.0, Straight Stitch (#2), Stitch Length 2.6
- Topstitching: Tension of 4.0, Stitch Length 3.0
- Buttonhole: #7
Overlocker Settings on my Janome 644D:
- Needle: Schmetz Super Stretch HAx1 SP 90
- 4 Thread: 2x Charcoal Serafil in needles, 2x Black Woolly Nylon in loopers
- Thread Tension: 3.0 3.0 6.0 7.0
- Stitch Length: 3.0
- Differential Feed: 1.0
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