Back Off Shirt with Spoonflower Fabric

This is what I’ve called my husband’s “Back Off Shirt”. It’s the second shirt I’ve made from my first Spoonflower fabric order. It’s another cotton poplin shirt so all of the techniques I used in the previous shirt, the History of the Apple Shirt, could be replicated with this one.

The design of the fabric is actually called if you can read this you are too close white on black by feeling_artsy. But that’s a bit long, so that’s why I’ve referred to it as a “Back Off Shirt”.

Shirt Pattern Used

I once again used my tried-and-true men’s shirt pattern Kwik Sew 3422 in a size Large. Being a black fabric this suited the long sleeve version as my husband could wear it to work (and keep those school staff and kids in their place – no, not really) or at night. If he only wanted to show a peak of the writing, as some may find offense, he can wear it under a jumper or jacket.

The pattern adjustments involved adding 1.5cm (5/8″) at the hip, graduating from nothing at the underarm in a straight line on the Front and Back pieces. As well as modifying seam allowances from 6mm (1/4″) to 1.5cm (5/8″) to allow for flat felled seams to be used on the armhole and side seam/sleeve. To achieve this I added 9mm (3/8″) to these areas:

• Front – side seam and armhole
• Back – side seam and armhole
• Yoke – armhole
• Sleeve – sleeve head and side seam

Cutting Out

I had a lot of fun cutting out this fabric. The patterns pieces could be cut with the grainline along the lengthwise grain as expected by the pattern. The “If you can read this you are too close!!!” would then be horizontal. Otherwise turn the pattern piece 90 degrees so grainline is along the crosswise grain. The “BACK OFF” would then be horizontal.

I decided to have “If you can read this you are too close!!!” read horizontally on the shirt front, back and sleeves, taking extra care to ensure “BACK OFF” was on the front button placket and the buttons would be between each “BACK OFF”.

I tried a few options for the pocket but eventually decided having “BACK OFF” read horizontally and in the centre of the pocket. This provided the most pleasing affect, to my eyes anyway.

On both sides of the yoke (the inside and outside) and the collar “BACK OFF” is read horizontally.

Sewing the Shirt

The shirt was sewn on my Janome Memory Craft 3500 sewing machine. A Universal 70 needle was perfect for the tight weave of the cotton poplin, with the default tension of 4.0. The seams were sewn with a 2.6 stitch length. Topstitching and edge stitching used a 3.0 stitch length, and a width of 0.0 (left most needle position).

The pattern instructions were used as a reference only. The shirt collar, cuffs and curved hem were sewn using the techniques taught in Janet Pray’s Shirtmaking Craftsy class. Flat felled seams were used for the armhole and side seam/sleeve. Automatic buttonholes were sewn using my sewing machines buttonhole stitch #7. I hand sewed 11mm dark grey buttons on centre front and cuffs, doing my best to ensure the wording matched up on either side of the front sections.

Shirt Review

I’m really happy with how this shirt came together, and doing it straight after the History of the Apple shirt and having all the methods fresh in my head made it a delightful experience. The fabric does need a press after a gentle wash, which is a bit annoying, but that’s part of trying out new fabric.

From a distance you don’t notice the text on the fabric, it just looks like a pattern. So when my husband has worn it to work he actually has to point it out to people, who have a little laugh and go about their day.

While I was working on it I did think some people may be offended by the text and think my husband wasn’t being friendly but fortunately that hasn’t happened yet. He is an approachable, friendly guy who’s job it is to help people with their IT problems, and he usually does it with smile.

Fabric: 3 metres of if you can read this you are too close white on black by feeling_artsy in a Cotton Poplin from Spoonflower – AU$76.37 + AU$4.50 delivery
Interfacing: Shirt Interfacing from Melanns (interfacing name is unknown) – approx AU$2.00
Buttons: Hemline fish eye 11mm dark grey buttons from Spotlight – AU$5.00
Thread: Gutermann 36 – Very Dark Grey – approx AU$2.00
Cost for shirt: AU$91.87

Pattern: Kwik Sew 3422, Size Large
Sewing Machine Needle: Universal 70
Tension: 4.0 (default)
Seam Settings: Stitch Length of 2.6
Topstitching and Edge Stitching Settings: Stitch Length of 3.0, Width of 0.0 (left most needle position)

Have you tried any other Spoonflower fabric for Men’s Shirts? I’d love to hear how it went and if you needed to iron it after a wash. Thanks!